Umbrellas and parasols in the 18th century

The Annals of Philadelphia provides a description of the use of parasols and umbrellas in the 18th century:

In Mrs. Shoemaker’s time, above named [having died in 1825 at the age of 95], they had no knowledge of umbrellas to keep off rain, but she had seen some few use quitasols — an article as small as present parasols. They were netirely to keep off rain from ladies. They were of oiled muslin, and were of various colours, from India by way of England. They must, however, have been but rare, as they never appear in any advertisements. Their name is derived from the Spanish.

Doctor Chanceller and the Rev. Mr. Duché were the first persons in Philadelphia who were ever seen to wear umbrellas to keep off the rain. They were of oiled linen, very coarse and clumsy, with ratan sticks. Before their time, some doctors and ministers used an oiled linen cape hooked round their shoulders, looking not unlike the big coat-capes now in use, and the ncalled a roquelaue. It was only used for severe storms.

About the year 1771, the first efforts were made in Philadelphia to introduce the use of umbrellas in summer as a defence from the sun. They were then scouted in the public Gazettes as a ridiculous effeminacy. On the other hand, the physicians recommended them to keep off vertigoes, epilepsies, sore eyes, fevers, &c. Finally, as the doctors were their chief patrons, Doctor Chanceller and Doctor Morgan, with the Rev. Parson Duché, were the first persons who had the hardihood to be so singular as to wear umbrellas in sunshine. Mr. Bingham, when he returned from the West Indies, where he had amassed a great fortune in the Revolution, appeared abroad in the streets attended by a mulatto boy bearing his umbrella. But his example did not take, and he desisted from its use.

We get a better picture of umbrellas (and attitudes toward their usage) from a story in the Virginia Gazette regarding a conversation that took place in Philadelphia in August 1771:

A GENTLEMAN of Diſtinction, from a ſouthern Colony, happened to dine in a large Company a few Days ago, and hearing ſome Perſons complain of the intenſe Heat of the Sun asked why the Gentlemen in this City did not fall upon Methods of rendering it more tolerable, and in particular why they did not uſe Umbrellas to ſhade themſelves. One of the Company expreſſed his Surpriſe at this Speech, and ſaid that for his Part he thought them very ridiculous, that a good large Hat would anſwer equally well, and that they looked very effeminate.

To this the Gentleman very pertinently replied, "all our Notions of Propriety and Impropriety are formed by Cuſtom ... As to the Umbrellas you exclaim againſt, however ridiculous they may appear to you, Sir, or to any Gentlemen in Company, they are looked upon as a graceful Part of Dreſs in many Countries, and are often carried upon this Account in thoſe Seaſons of the Year when they are in ſome Meaſure unneceſſary. In India, and in moſt parts of Aſia, a Man would as ſoon go out of his Houſe without a Shirt as without an Umbrella. In Italy, France, and Spain, they are in every Body's Hands. In the Weſt India Iſlands, and in moſt of the ſouthern Colonies, they are ſo common that none who can afford them ever go without them."

"But" (continued the Gentleman) "I am far from recommending them as Appendages to Dreſs, or because they are ornamental. Their great Uſefulneſs alone would overbalance all that could be ſaid against their Propriety, even ſuppoſing we had loſt that Part of the Argument. They are wide and light, and afford a large Shelter from the Sun. They likewiſe afford a Shelter from thoſe Summer Showers which are ſo frequent in theſe Climates, and are much to be preferred to great Coats and Rockeloes, which do more Harm by the Heat they occaſion than the Rain would have done."

"Their Colour, moreover (being generally green) is very friendly to the Eyes. Physicians tell us that a long Train of Diſeaſes follow from what they call Inſolation, or long Expoſure to the Heat of the Sun; ſuch as Vertigoes, Epilepſy, ſore Eyes, Fevers, &c. Theſe are all obviated by the uſe of the Umbrella."

"But you ſay, Sir, that Hats will anſwer all theſe Purpoſes. No ſuch Thing. Cuſtom and Frugality have conſpired to die theſe black, the worſt Colour in the World in hot Weather. Beſides,they are heavy, and too ſmall (let their Brims be ever ſo broad) to afford a complete Shelter from the Rayd of the Sun."

"You ſay farther, that they look effeminate; the Ladies uſe them only. The Ladies wear Shoes; let the Men therefore go barefooted. The Ladies defend themſelves by various Means from Cold, Rain, Thunder, Fire, &c. Let the Men then abandon themſelves to the Rage of each of theſe terrible Evils, and ſcorn to look effeminate by guarding againſt them. Abſurd Reaſoning! Are not the Men expoſed more to the Sun than the Women? Does not their Buſineſs call them from home at all Hours of the Day? Are not their Lives of equal (I ſhall not ſay of greater) Importance to their Families, and to Society, with the Womens?"

"If all theſe Things are true, then I ſee no Reaſon why the Gentlemen ſhould not wear Umbrellas as well as the Ladies." The Gentleman ſilenced his Opponent with this Speech. The whole Company aſſented to what he ſaid.

A verse published in the Independent Gazetteer in 1784 suggests that not all Philadelphians were convinced by this logic, however.