18th Century Riding Habits

Cally Blackman, in Walking Amazons, notes that, by the mid-18th century, the riding habit “had become an essential part of the wardrobe of fashionable middle and upper class women – a position which it retained for many decades. Its development ran in tandem with that of the male suit and, whilst details of cut and trimming changed with fashion, it always retained its basic format of habit jacket, skirt and optional waistcoat. As well as for riding or following the hunt, it was particularly worn for travelling and increasingly as informal day wear; for walking, visiting and at home as an alternative to, for example, a nightgown, in which to spend the day until required to dress more formally … Enthusiastically adopted by many women, it offered a degree of comfort and warmth that was not possible to achieve with other items of fashionable dress.”

Women wearing riding habits in non-equestrian contexts are further illustrated in the portraits and other illustrations below. However, this fashion was not universally beloved by 18th century writers:

Condemns the Lady’s Hermophroditical Riding Habit … As to the Ladys Riding Habit, the Waſtecoat and Petticoat are convenient and becoming, that is, the Feminine Waſtecoat, not the Maſculine. Thaleſtris, in her Riding Habit, his hardly known from a very pretty Fellow. Saw her lately at a Gaming Table, with her Hair, in a Soldierly Manner, turned under her cockaded Hat, her Jacket reſembled a Man’s Coat, and ſhe fequently ſat Bare-headed. The Ladies muſt have odd Opinions of the Men, to think they can be moſt agreeable when they moſt reſemble the Male Sex. How would they like a young Fellow making Love to them in a Suit of Pinners, a Pair of Stays, and a Mantua? The Reaſon of Diſguſt holds good on both Sides.

Aprehends that the Maſculine Habits the Ladies affect, will give them a bold and Maſculine Behaviour. Being lately on the Road, he expected a real pretty Fellow would have been thrown off his Horſe, by one of theſe Amazons, who ſeem’d reſolved to have the Way: But Miſchief was prevented by caſting his Eye on the Petticoat.

His Friend Truelove, who was juſt on the Point of Marriage, is grown cool on the Matter, on his Miſtreſs’s aſſuming one of theſe Habits. He thinks, that when a Woman has got all but the Breeches, ſhe will ſtruggle hard for them too.

— The Gentleman’s Magazine, 1731

The Hat and Peruke, which has been some time made part of a lady's riding equipage, is such an odd kind of affectation, that I hardly know under what species to range it; it is such an enemy to female beauty, it is so foreign to every amiable grace, it adds such a masculine fierceness to the figure, and such a shameless boldness to every feature, that neither decency nor elegance can justify it.—None but Amazons ought to wear it; and, if any of the sex are now courageous enough to bid defiance to mankind, I must insist on their wearing the Breeches too, to make their disguise complete. But I am apt to believe it is made use of on quite different motives; it must certainly take place out of a more than ordinary regard to us, and must be meant as the highest compliment. Besides, it may serve to tickle the mind with pretty imaginations; sometimes supply the absence of a beau, and sometimes please with the resemblance. I never see one of these Heroines without ascribing some such cause for her gallantry; and always surmise with what readiness she would part with the appearance in exchange for the reality.

The Riding Habit simply, with the black velvet cap and white feather, is, in my opinion, the most elegant dress that belongs to the ladies' wardrobe; there is a grace and gentility in it that all other dresses want; it displays the shape and turn of the body to great advantage, and betrays a negligence that is perfectly agreeable. This fashion was certainly first invented by a woman of taste; and I am pleased to see the ladies in general so well reconciled to it. It argues something like good sense in their choice still remaining; and she who makes her whole actions most conformable to that standard, will always be most secure of conquests and reputation.

— The Weekly Register, July 10, 1731

Of the riding-habits lately become ſo common with thoſe who never ride, I ſhall only obſerve, that however befitting it may be to ladies in the character of Diana, it is ſtill a maſculine garb, and in our eyes does not add thoſe graces to the female appearance which have been by ſome ſuppoſed peculiar to it. When firſt introduced into this country, it was worn only by ladies when intending to go on horſeback, and has many conveniences for that exerciſe. To put it on, therefore, when one pays a viſit, or goes to church, is ſuch a deviation from the original deſign, that I hope the ladies will take the matter into ſerious conſideration.

— The Lady’s Magazine, 1789