18th Century Women’s Pockets
Even though many 18th century pockets were highly decorative, they were worn (either as single pockets, or as a pair of pockets) underneath one’s petticoats and gown, meant to be hidden away, for protection from pickpockets. There are a few illustrations where you can see a visible pocket on a female figure, and some workers in public houses or marketplaces wore pocket aprons.
While plain, unadorned pockets were the predominant style in the 18th century, later collectors found them less appealing, so they weren’t as widely conserved as more decorative styles. This page also includes links to pockets with crewel embroidery, canvaswork embroidery, silk embroidery, and other types of embroidery, as well as patchwork pockets and quilted pockets.
Embroidery patterns for pockets appeared in magazines in July 1772, October 1786, and January 1789.
Additional Resources
This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives, 1660-1900
Pockets of History: contains new digital photographs of over three hundred tie-on pockets of the 1700 and 1800s, with overviews and close-ups of details
Pockets in the V&A collection: Make Your Own Pocket
How to Decorate an 18th-Century Pocket
Burnley & Trowbridge Pocket Sew Along
Pockets (18cNewEnglandLife)
Pockets! (Diary of a Mantua Maker)
Women’s Pockets and the Construction of Privacy in the Long Eighteenth Century
Getting Dressed in the 18th Century: Pockets
Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction, 1660-1860
Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790
Pockets with crewel embroidery
Cooper Hewitt 1957-105-1, 18th century
Cooper Hewitt 1957-157-6, 18th century
Concord Museum 2023.28.1, a pocket with floral embroidery, made in Concord, Massachusetts
Chester County History Center 1993.744, a linen pocket with crewel wool embroidery
Winterthur 1966.1359, North America, 18th century
Winterthur 1958.1521, North America, 18th century
V&A T.730B-1913, linen pocket embroidered with wool, England, c. 1700-1725
V&A T.697:B, C-1913, pair of linen twill pockets embroidered with wool, England, c. 1700-1725
Winterthur 1969.0691, North America, c. 1725-1775
London Museum 46.8/3, c. 1736-1745
London Museum 49.91/2, c. 1740-1760
Colonial Williamsburg 1958-180, crewel on linen cotton twill, America, c. 1740-1770
Colonial Williamsburg 1963-11, crewel on linen cotton, New England, c. 1740-1770
Winterthur 1958.1758, North America, c. 1740-1775
Met 2009.300.2102, wool embroidery on linen pocket, America, 1750
Winterthur 1958.2868, North America, 1750-1760
Winterthur 1954.0055.001, North America, 1750-1775
Winterthur 1978.0183, North America, 1750-1780
DAR 61.53, “Woman's pocket constructed from natural linen (front) and green silk (back) [the silk here is certainly a replacement for an original more sturdy linen backing and binding]. The front of the pocket contains an elaborate crewel (worsted wool thread) floral embroidery; the colors used are pink, yellow, green, and blue. The pattern is symmetrical, and consists of one continuous (from top to bottom and around) floral vine design to which the flowers are connected. In the center of the bottom is an additional stemmed flower that rises to the edge of the slit. The slit is 8 3/8" long, bound with green silk and a smaller scale floral vine border. The back is constructed from green silk that is lined with natural glazed cotton which may be a later addition. Stitches include chain, satin, stem, and herringbone in shades of pink, yellow, green, blue, and brown. Cross-stitched initials AP are stitched on either side of the central flower,” United States, 1750-1790
DAR 2623, “Linen pocket with crewel (worsted wool) embroidery on front, bound in several block-printed brown cottons, with blue and white braided cotton thread ties. The embroidery is done in shades of blue, in a symmetrical design of stylized roses and other flowers and leaves emerging from an undulating vine which reaches up either side of the center slit. Stitches include chain, loop, buttonhole, and large French knots at the centers of the flowers and creating the small buds. The front of the pocket is lined with white linen,” Dummerston, Vermont, 1750-1790
DAR 74.176, “ The embroidery design is a symmetrical arrangement of stylized leaves, flowers and thistles, executed in green, blue, yellow and gold wool. The filling stitches used on each of the large motifs are the satin and herringbone stitches. Each large motif is outlined with the feather stitch. Some smaller leaves are also done in feather stitch. The vine which connects the large motifs are done in outline stitch. Small areas of satin stitch dot the pocket and are arranged like the points of a diamond. In each diamond, the opposite dots are of the same color (brown or blue). The pocket is backed with several pieces of blue and tan linen ticking in two different weaves … The front of the pocket is lined in the same two tickings, with a corner piece of the second ticking with pairs of stripes similarly placed in the upper corner. The edges of the pocket and slit are bound with a block printed off-white linen in a brown small scalloped design with dots inside each scallop. The ties attached to the top of the pocket are a blue and white striped wool tape,” United States, 1750-1790
Pocket made by Susanna Yeakel in the second half of the 18th century. “This crewel work pocket illustrates the impact the English neighbors had on the Schwenkfelders. This type of embroidery was much more associated with the English than it would have been with Germans, and was seen in 18th century America throughout New England and the Mid Atlantic. One of the Susanna Yeakels … stitched and sewed this treasure made of handspun linen with wool embroidery. On the reverse is her monogram 'S Y' in cross stitch.”
Winterthur 1958.2051, North America, c. 1750-1800
LACMA M.67.8.90a-b, cotton and linen embroidered in wool, England, 1753
PVMA 1915.18.04, linen pocket with crewel wool embroidery, c. 1760-1800
Old Sturbridge Village 26.67.21, c. 1760-1810: “Fabric at bottom front is a cotton and linen weave, which has been embroidered. Top and back fabrics of pocket are linen … Irregular placement of embroidery on both sides of opening indicates that the embroidery is a remnant remade into a pocket.”
Chester County History Center 1993.752, homespun linen pocket with crewel embroidered flowers and vines, c. 1765
Concord Museum Cos74.173, floral embroidered pocket on homespun fabric, c. 1765-1785
London Museum 35.35/2, c. 1770-1780; “Pair of white linen pockets embroidered with wool thread in a floral design; backed and bound with plain canvas; both pockets joined with linen ribbon ties.”
Old Sturbridge Village 26.67.4, crewel embroidery on linen, c. 1770-1810
London Museum 35.35/2, c. 1770-1780; “Pair of white linen pockets embroidered with wool thread in a floral design; backed and bound with plain canvas; both pockets joined with linen ribbon ties.”
National Trust 1350100, c. 1775-1800; “Made from cream cotton dimity and lined with cream linen. It is embroidered in wool with a vase with a rose and other flowers and a trailing stem with pinks, other flowers and leaves.”
Winterthur 1966.1126, North America, 1780-1840
Met 2009.300.2241, America, c. 1784; “The vibrant and exuberant design of this example probably was worked by an untrained embroiderer at home who worked the design freehand. The motifs of roses, tulips and carnations are similar to those in samplers worked in Chester County, Pennsylvania in the fourth quarter of the 18th century. The gradation and shading of the greens and the general black outlining of the stems and central motif seem to be derived from English crewelwork.”
MFA 40.80, crewel embroidered pocket with the balloon ascent of Vincent Lunardi, England, 1787
Pockets with canvaswork embroidery
Philadelphia Art Museum 1930-30-36, pocket with Irish stitch in wool and silk, America, mid-18th century
Chester County History Center 1993.766, a pair of women’s flamestitch pockets, c. 1760-1780, in Fitting & Proper; “fronts worked in multicolor flamestitch in a geometric pattern on off-white linen with an off-white linen linning and backing, bound in green wool tape”
Ivo Collection 1037, English flamestitched pockets with the initials ‘BL’ and dated 1766
Skinner Auctions 2412, Lot 25, two wool and linen canvaswork pockets “worked in an Irish stitch, in multicolored geometric patterns in shades of red, green, blue, and yellow, bound with red wool twill tape, lined and backed with linen”
Pockets with silk embroidery
London Museum A21980b and A21980c
V&A 1411-1900, unfinished pocket of linen embroidered with silk, England, c. 1700-1725
V&A T.281&A-1910, pair of linen pockets embroidered with silk, England, c. 1700-1725
V&A CIRC.86-1938, a pair of linen pockets with silk embroidery, England, c. 1700-1725
V&A T.208&A-1970, pocket-backs of linen embroidered with silk, England, c. 1700-1725
London Museum 49.23/2, c. 1701-1725
Met 1974.101.1, pockets with silk embroidery, Britain, c. 1700-1750
V&A T.42-1935, linen pocket embroidered with yellow silk backstitching, England, c. 1718-1720
V&A T.41&A-1935, unfinished pocket fronts, showing ink design on linen, partially embroidered in silk, England, c. 1718-1720
Ivo Collection 1005, linen pocket embroidered in colored silks, Britain, c. 1725-1750
Ivo Collection 1018, pair of linen pockets with false quilting in yellow silk, Britain, c. 1725-1750
Winterthur 1964.0982, New England, c. 1725-1800
Colonial Williamsburg 1989-437, silk on linen, England, 1737
LACMA M.59.21.1a-b, outline embroidery in silk on linen, England, mid-18th century
LACMA M.67.8.89a-b, silk embroidered on linen, England, mid-18th century
DAR 2423.2, “White linen pocket, lined and backed in white linen, the front embroidered with light blue silk thread in a symmetrical design of stylized flowers and leaves growing from a curving vine growing up either side of the center pocket slit. Embroidery is done in a combination of cross, stem, seed, and blanket stitches. It was worked before the pocket was assembled since the second layer of cloth, or lining, covers the stitches of the first piece,” United States, 1750-1790
Historic New England 1991.1425, linen pocket with blue silk embroidery, c. 1760-1800
Augusta Auction Apr 9 2014, Lot 154, 18th-early 19th century: “Homespun natural linen F, B, & lining, dark & medium indigo blue cross & satin stitch embroidery in designs of fanciful flowers, fronds & 1 large-beaked bird, edges bound in blue on white stripe cotton”
Williamsburg 1958-409, “tabby-woven natural linen embroidered in a pattern of trailing vines with roses, carnations, and other flowers in colored silk … Face fabric was reused from an existing piece of silk embroidery, not originally embroidered in a pocket shape,” England or Europe, 1770-1800
MESDA 2400, probably made by Martha Elizabeth Spach of Salem, North Carolina, in 1780; “Woman’s linen tie pocket embroidered with flowers in silk. The edges were originally bound in narrow pink silk ribbon, which is now mostly disintigrated; the ties are also missing. The leaves are shades of green and the flowers are faded pinks and blues. The front is lined with the same hand printed brown stripe (linen) as the back.”
Winterthur 2013.0031.103, cross stitch, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, 1781
Met 1979.346.200, embroidered linen pockets, America, 1796
Pockets with other styles of embroidery
Rhode Island Historical Society 1985.1.9, a child’s pocket, 1720-1760; “Very dingy, gray pocket with rope loop at top, slash opening down center with remnants of red fabric. The embroidery is linen thread in blue and creams and is monogrammed "S F" in cross-stitch on front. The back is plain.”
Colonial Williamsburg 1951-465, cotton/linen front with wool embroidery (cross stitch), made by Judith Robinson, probably from Pennsylvania, c. 1780-1820; see also An 18thc. Pocket-Sampler … or is It a Sampler-Pocket?
Davies Auctions October 14 2021, Lot 162, pocket with an alphabet and other motifs in cross stitch and lines in running stitch (?), dated 1788
Met 2009.300.5635, America, c. 1790 (whitework?)
National Museum of American History 52752, whitework embroidered pocket, 18th century
Patchwork pockets
National Museum of American History CS.06687C, 1740-1790
Winterthur 1967.1392, England, 1750-1800
A woman’s patchwork pocket, c. 1750-1800, in Fitting & Proper: “A woman’s hanging pocket with front of piecework and applique fine white linen and five different cotton prints, lined with another print and a check and backed with off-white linen”
National Museum of American History CS.006687, 1770-1830
National Museum of American History CS.006687A, 1770-1830
Historic New England 1991.1424, patchwork pocket, c. 1775-1800
MFA 43.252, embroidered patchwork pocket, England
Williamsburg 2008-141, pieced printed and plain cottons and linen, Rhode Island, 1780-1810
Winterthur 1960.0195, England, 1780-1800
Winterthur 1960.0250, England, 1780-1800
Winterthur 1960.1013.001/Winterthur 1960.1013.002, United States, 1780-1810
Historic New England 1991.1427, patchwork pocket, c. 1780-1820
Winterthur 1960.0249, England, 1790-1800
Patchwork pocket and housewife made by Sabra Gallup, New England, late 18th century
Skinner Auctions 3278M, Lot 130, two pockets made of linen and printed cotton, late 18th/early 19th century
Old Sturbridge Village 26.67.41, patchwork pocket embroidered with initials, c. 1800
Chester County History Center 1993.743, patchwork pocket with pieced stars and appliqued scrolls, 19th century
Quilted pockets
Williamsburg 1971-1584,1, cotton, cord quilted with linen, possibly Marseilles, 1700-1750
V&A T.87A, B-1978, yellow silk pockets, England, c. 1745
Henry Ford 2001.0.58.79, aqua satin pocket, 1790-1800
Chester County History Center 1993.747, front made from quilted cotton, 18th or 19th century
Plain pockets
Met 1979.346.107, linen pockets, America
Winterthur 1960.0248, block-printed cotton, England, 1720-1730
Concord Museum PER830.1 / PER830.2, white dimity backed with linen, marked with the initials 'RM', c. 1725-75
Concord Museum PER830A, a dimity pocket backed with linen, c. 1725-1775
Concord Museum PER830C, “made of gray and blue striped material, backed with white (yellowed) twilled material,” c. 1725-1775
Concord Museum PER830B, a cream-colored linen pocket, c. 1725-1775
Winterthur 1969.3102, block-printed cotton, England, 1735-1745
Dudmaston National Trust 814614.13, 1740-1760; “White cotton pocket: faced at opening and tied with white linen tape”
Chester County History Center 1993.765, double pockets, fronts made of a floral print cotton, 1749
Pair of woman’s printed pockets, c. 1750, in Fitting & Proper: “multicolor floral print on off-white linen, lined and backed with off-white linen”
DAR 65.139, “Plain white linen pocket, sides and center slit bound in the same white linen. Front is lined with a lighter weight, looser weave linen, and the same linen is used on the backing,” made in Danvers, Massachusetts (possibly by Sarah Andrews Page), 1750-1790
Chester County History Center 1993.763, “Brown cotton print front, white linen back; each slit & waist top bound in different brown prints,” c. 1754-1817
PVMA 1915.18.05, cotton calico, America, second half of the 18th century
National Trust 1367207, c. 1750-1760; “Woven marcella pocket, central slit and cotton tie tape.”
Philadelphia Art Museum 1966-153-12, mid to late 18th century, printed cotton
V&A T.150-1970, a pocket of matelassé linen (originally woven into a pocket shape), England, c. 1760-1775
Concord Museum T823, “A pocket made of hand-woven linen, stamped with a floral chintz design in orange, green and black,” made in America c. 1760-1780
Williamsburg 1953-368, block-printed cotton, England, 1760-1800
MFA 98.1802a, single piece of pocket-shaped calico with slit; English, used in New England, last quarter of the 18th century
National Museum of American History CS.006687B, pocket in striped fabric, 1770-1830
Cooper Hewitt 2016-35-87, “Pair of pockets in brown striped linen on a linen base, held together with woven tape,” America, 1775-1825
Dimity pocket belonging to Abigail Adams, late 18th century; “Measuring a full fourteen inches in length, this pocket is composed of eight pieces of dimity sewn together with an opening halfway down the front. Two ties are attached to the top seams of the pocket to be secured around the waist. The simple and sturdy striped fabric of the pocket--the polar opposite of the sheer cotton known today as dimity--suggests that this was a utilitarian garment to be tied under an apron or worn beneath a skirt and accessed through an opening in the outer garments.”
Newport Historical Society 2012.34.7, pockets made from an “ivory unbalanced plain weave fabric”
Winterthur 2005.0046, New England, 1785-1795
MFA 99.664.22, cotton pocket with one remaining tape tie; Lexington, late 18th or early 19th century
Chester County History Center 1993.750, “Green, brown & white print front, opening bound in same fabric; back blue & white plaid lined,” 18th or 19th century
Chester County History Center 1993.768, white pockets, 18th or 19th century
Chester County History Center 1993.775, white pockets, 18th or 19th century
Colonial Williamsburg 1964-411, white dimity, New York, c. 1785-1810
Met C.I.40.159.4, striped linen, American, 1789
DAR 2010.51.1, “Blue and white striped linen pocket, backed and bound in the same, the slit bound in a blue and white resist printed cotton with small abstract floral designs,” Connecticut, 1790-1820
DAR 82.138.10.1.A & 82.138.10.1.B, “a pair of white pockets of striped cotton dimity, backed in white linen. The slit is bound with linen tape; the edges of the pocket are not bound,” Pennsylvania (Margaret Evans), 1790-1840
DAR 82.138.10.2.A & 82.138.10.2.B, “a pair of white cotton dimity pockets attached together by narrow linen plainweave tape … and backed with plain, unglazed linen. The slit is bound in linen tape and the outer edge of the pocket is not bound,” Pennsylvania (Margaret Evans), 1790-1840
DAR 2007.A & 2007.B, “a pair of white and brown checked linen pockets, bound with the same,” Kentucky, 1800
Cooper Hewitt 1960-81-13, pocket with ribbed-weave cotton front and plain-woven linen back
Chester County History Center 1993.762, green wool pockets with linen backs, 18th or 19th century
Chester County History Center 1993.772, pockets with ribbed cotton fronts and linen backs, 18th or 19th century
Cooper Hewitt 1960-81-14, “Women's pocket with an off-white linen back and off-white cotton face, with block-printed binding and area around pocket opening with small sprigs of red flowers. Cotton fabric is patterned with an all-over diaper pattern.”