18th Century Linen Clothing
Irish Linen Industry: The common Method of Beetling, Scutching and Hackling the Flax
© The Trustees of the British Museum. Shared under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) licence.
Linen was commonly used for shirts, shifts, functional aprons, and the linings of many other garments (including waistcoats and gowns). Linen is also used as the ground for some embroidered garments and accessories, such as women’s petticoats and pockets. Several women’s waistcoats are made of quilted and/or embroidered linen, too.
Some people recommend linen for re-enactment clothing (especially for outdoor events in hot weather), but others note the relative lack of garments specifically described as being made of linen or the lack of extant garments. See the Additional Resources on this page for some discussion and analysis of descriptions of linen clothing.
This page collects links to extant linen garments from the 18th century, along with references to linen clothing. There are sections on white linen clothing, linen clothing with embroidery, linen clothing with printed patterns, buff or natural linen clothing, solid-colored dyed linen clothing, and checked or striped linen clothing.
Additional Resources
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White linen clothing
Etienne Loys’ 1753 portrait of Guillaume Barcellon with a tennis racket probably shows a white linen waistcoat similar to the examples below. An Edinburgh Auction shows James Graham “wearing his accustomed suit of white linen with black stockings.” I suspect Noel Desenfans is also wearing a linen suit.
For more on white linen clothing worn in hot climates, see “For the heat is beyond your conception”: men’s summer dress in the American south during the long eighteenth-century.
MFA 43.672 and 43.673, white linen quilted and corded petticoats, one with a floral design, the other with a Chinoiserie-inspired design, England, early 18th century
National Trust 1349000, a white linen waistcoat decorated with corded quilting; retains one Dorset wheel button; 1720-1740
Historic Deerfield F.075, a white linen waistcoat quilted to shape with corded designs, probably English, 1725-1750
National Trust 1366510.1 & 1366510.2, waistcoat fronts with floral motifs in drawn thread work, some areas with trapunto, 1730-1770
KM 2463, a quilted white linen shortgown from the 1740s from Sweden
National Trust 1349001, a sleeved waistcoat trimmed with whitework down the front and on the hems, possibly German or Scandinavian, 1740-1750
Met C.I.44.8.9a, b, a pair of linen mitts, probably European
Museum Rotterdam 20890-1-2, a pair of white linen mitts
Met 43.130.8, a French waistcoat
Met 21.136.4, a Swiss waistcoat
Augusta Auctions Nov 11 2015 Lot 239, knee breeches in white pinstripe linen, American, 1760-1770
National Trust 1350470, a child’s cream linen gown with the bodice and sleeves lined in heavier linen; neck and sleeves edged with narrow lace; 1770
Connecticut Historical Society 2001.49.6, a small boy’s waistcoat in white plain-woven linen with Dorset buttons, 1770s
Colonial Williamsburg 1993-46, boy’s linen breeches in coarse tabby linen, America (Maine or New Hampshire), 1775-1800
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum 1932.51.o, a cord-quilted linen pet en l’air worn by Mary McDowall of Johnstone Castle in Scotland, made c. 1780-1781
Connecticut Historical Society 1841.5.0, white linen waistcoat worn by Col. William Ledyard when he was killed in 1781; the linen is woven in alternating reversing twilled stripes, the buttons are linen-covered wood. Matching breeches are CHS 1962.43.7.
Colonial Williamsburg 2008-113, a man’s double-breasted waistcoat in white linen with thread-covered white buttons, made in England c. 1780-1800
Henry Ford 35.596.22, a waistcoat, c. 1780-1840
DAR 2389.2, a child’s waistcoat; “Main fabric is a damask with a geometric pattern, while white plainweave linen is used to line the front facing. Two 1" deep pockets; standing collar. Closes with four sets of white cotton tapes all the way to the collar,” probably c. 1790
Met 1988.342.3, linen trousers made in Europe c. 1793
Henry Ford 96.0.171.42, a jacket, c. 1800
Met 2009.300.1685a, b, a pair of linen mitts made in America c. 1800-1824
References to white linen clothing (other than shirts, shifts, aprons, etc.)
“a white Linen Jacket” (Boston Evening Post, July 6, 1752)
“white Linen long Breeches” (Virginia Gazette, October 27, 1752)
“a Pair of white Linen Breeches” (Virginia Gazette, October 17, 1755)
“a white Linen Waist-coat” (Maryland Gazette, August 20, 1761)
“Carried with her a white Linen Jacket, ruffle cuffed, a Petticoat of the same” (Maryland Gazette, August 8, 1762)
“a short white linen sack, petticoat of the same” (Virginia Gazette, April 25, 1766)
“2 linen jackets, 1 white and 1 striped” (New-York Gazette, July 27, 1772)
“a white Linen Coat” (Virginia Gazette, July 1, 1773)
“a pair of white linen trowsers” (Pennsylvania Gazette, August 10, 1773)
“a white linen jacket without buttons” (Virginia Gazette, July 21, 1774)
Galerie des Modes, 7e Cahier, 4e Figure, 1778: “The Print shows a Lady of quality, walking in the country, dressed in a demi-polonaise with a simple tail. The petticoat and the tail are of white linen, of which the trim and flounce, which are very inconvenient while walking, were replaced with bands of fabric painted with borders.”
“two short gowns (or bed-gowns) one of white linen” (Maryland Journal and Baltimore Advertiser, May 4, 1779)
“SARAH DANIEL … had on a cotton petticoat and white linen waistcoat” (Virginia Gazette and General Advertiser, January 12, 1791)
“a homespun white linen jacket” (North Carolina Gazette, September 24, 1791)
“white linen overalls” (The City Gazette, December 12, 1791)
“a white linen coat and jacket” (Virginia Gazette and General Advertiser, January 18, 1792)
“white linen overalls” (Virginia Gazette and General Advertiser, January 25, 1792)
“overhawls white, and white linen breeches” (The City Gazette, June 23, 1792)
“white linen wrapper” (The City Gazette, August 27, 1794)
“a suit of coarse white linen” (The City Gazette, September 12, 1797)
Embroidered linen clothing
Many embroidered petticoats and embroidered pockets also use a linen ground.
Met 45.49, a sleeved linen waistcoat, British, early 18th century
LACMA M.80.43.4a-b, a pair of mitts in linen with silk embroidery, probably made in India for the Western market, 1700-1725
Kunstmuseum Den Haag 0150867, fine linen mitts embroidered with black silk
Met 1993.17a, b, an embroidered dress, Italy, 1725-1750
Met C.I.66.34, an embroidered robe à l’anglaise, British, 1725-1750
Met 54.124, a child’s dress, linen embroidered with wool, American, mid-18th century
Museum Rotterdam 20837-A-B, a pair of linen mitts with tambour embroidery in silk
Met 42.188.2, a linen petticoat embroidered with crewel wool in New England, c. 1750
KM 67871.2, white linen robe à l'anglaise with blue embroidery, c. 1750-1799
Fries Museum T01193, a pair of white linen mitts with blue embroidery, c. 1750-1799
Connecticut Historical Society 1978.104.0, a small boy’s sleeved waistcoat with crewel embroidery, 1758-1760
National Trust 1350246, a boy’s waistcoat, 1760-1770; probably homespun twilled linen, lined with a coarser twilled linen and embroidered in silks
National Trust 1365653.1, an embroidered linen dress, c. 1770
Kerry Taylor Auctions Dec 12 2016, Lot 40, an embroidered linen open robe, English, 1770s
KM 678712.2, a robe à l’angalise in a cotton-linen blend, embroidered with blue cotton, 1770s
Met 1998.314a, b, a robe à la polonaise in heavy linen with floral appliqués outlined in sequins, made in Britain c. 1780
V&A 184-1898, “a woman's gown of linen tamboured in an all-over pattern of serpentine trails with flowers and leaves in shades of pink, green, yellow and red, with additional herringbone stitch,”, possibly embroidered and made in the 1770s and then remade in the 1780s
Philadelphia Museum of Art 1991-75-27, a tan linen waistcoat with silk embroidery, late 18th century
Met 2010.156, an embroidered linen skirt, British, late 18th century
Meg Andrews 8327, a linen embroidered waistcoat with tambour embroidery in a guilloche design, 1790s
Printed linen clothing
From Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890:
a) Because of linen manufacture being a home industry, printed linens like fustians were not subject to the prohibition of 1722 to 1774. Nevertheless, relatively few printed linen garments survive to represent this period. By 1770, linens were being printed in the regions of London, Manchester, Carlisle, Glasgow and Dublin. Scottish printers appear to have made a speciality of handkerchiefs, but the distribution of garment printing of linens has not yet been studied.
b) Printed linens enjoyed wide sales in both the home and export markets. That printed linens gained some measure of fashionability is demonstrated by examples in the Barbara Johnson album, in which both plate-printed and block-printed examples occur. Printed linens gained an association with country wear that was well developed by the 1780s. In a novel of 1789, the heroine disguises herself “as country lass, in a fine flowered linen gown, pink petticoat, straw hat, and white cloth cloak…” [Bennett, Agnes Maria. Agnes de-Courci, a domestic tale. Bath, 1789, p.206]. Another country maiden attired for a rustic fête wears “a little straw-hat, lined with pink, and a flowered linen gown, tied with ribbons of the same colour, and pinned back to shew a pink petticoat…” [Keate, George. Sketches from nature; taken, and coloured in a journey to Margate. London, 1790, p.121.]
c) Linen is not an easy fibre to print, and it is more difficult to obtain the same depth of shade as on cotton. This may be why it is usually found printed with simpler colour effects than cotton. Madder colours were often used as these could withstand the laundering (bucking with alkalis) that linens were expected to endure.
Morphy Auctions Lot 1186, a woman’s short gown made from block-printed linen possibly produced c. 1730-1740, “the ground of the fabric now an ivory color and the printed floral devices with black (now brown) outline work, leaves and petals colored in green and pinkish red, respectively”
National Trust 814614.11, a doll’s gown in linen block printed in red with leaf, bird foot, and triple-dot design, 1740-1760
In Fitting & Proper: “Woman’s gown, c. 1740-60, altered c. 1775-80, an open robe in beige linen, block printed in two shades of brown, lined with beige linen and with blue and white checked linen”
Fries Museum T1957-450, a house dress or contouche in white linen printed with a red design, c. 1750-1799
Centraal Museum 11020, a girl’s caraco in ivory-colored linen printed with a sprinkled pattern of red and blue flowers, lined with white linen, c. 1750-1775
Met C.I.37.2, a coat (bedgown), American, third quarter of the 18th century
Historic New England 1998.5875, dress with blue copperplate printed floral pattern on cream ground, worn by Deborah Sampson, 1760-1790
Printed linen waistcoat, c. 1765-1770; “This waistcoat is lined in fine linen or cotton, and has two slightly different patterns on the front and back. It is closed with self covered buttons and welted buttonholes. The absence of pocket bags under the flaps suggest that perhaps this was a casual waistcoat for wear with a banyan and matching cap.”
Chertsey M.1989.13, “white linen open robe block printed with bamboo and flowering branches design in rose madder, brown and blue,” c. 1770-1773
KCI AC7621 92-34-2AB, robe à la française in white glazed plain-weave linen with a blue floral print, France, 1770s
Manchester 1970.199, a white linen dress “White linen, block printed in spaced pairs of narrow lilac stripes with related pattern of sprigs and a light scattering of smaller sprigs inbetween in red, yellow and brown. The sprigs are 'pencilled' by hand.” See also Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890.
Met 26.265.48, a quilted petticoat in linen with two different printed designs, France, late 18th century
Centraal Museum 14571, a jacket for an infant in printed linen, c. 1775
Fries Museum T1956-436, a printed linen handkerchief, c. 1775-1799
V&A T.219-1966, a lady’s swallowtail jacket made of “linen printed in a repeating pattern of floral sprigs,” France, 1780s
V&A T.230-1927, a gown in block-printed linen, England, 1780s
From Fitting & Proper: Woman’s shortgown, c. 1780-1800, “brown and off-white figured print cotton, lined with off-white linen and with brown and off-white floral printed linen in the sleeves”; also a woman’s underpetticoat, c. 1780-1800, “an off-white linen petticoat trimmmed with bands of two different brown and off-white linen floral prints, one on the inside of the hem and one on the outside”
Additional Resources
Text references to printed linen clothing
“a flowered linen bed gown, with the flowers wash’d almost white … a common India linen gown, black and redish brown spotted figure” (The New York Journal, July 30, 1772)
“Whereas Thomas Searl ... committed to the common goal at Bodmin … The ſaid Thomas Searl … wears a white ruſty wig, with a pale blue coat, flowered linen waiſtcoat, and an old claret-colour breeches.” (The Western Flying Post; or, Sherborne and Yeovil Mercury, November 23, 1772)
“Ran away from his maſter, Arthur Maddick, of Brixham, fiſherman, Thomas Thorn, his apprentice ... wore, when he went off, a reddiſh colour beaver coat, a flowered linen waiſtcoat, and a pair of black pluſh breeches.” (The Western Flying Post; or, Sherborne and Yeovil Mercury, October 18, 1773)
“a Negro Woman, named RACHEL … had on when she went away … a blue and white flowered Linen Waistcoat” (Virginia Gazette, February 10, 1774)
“the houſe of Phillip Jenkyn, inn-keeper, in Bodmin, was feloniouſly broke open … from which there was found wanting the next morning … a flower’d linen gown, with ſprigs of red, blue, and purple; the ruffle cuffs belonging to the ſame were left behind: what is remarkable, the gown had been lately lengthened.” (The Western Flying Post; or, Sherborne and Yeovil Mercury, July 4, 1774)
“the petticoat is trimmed with a sprigged linen flounce gathered in pipes” (Galerie des Modes, 16e Cahier, 1ere Figure, 1778)
“Deserted from a recruiting party of his Majeſty’s ſeventh, or Queen’s regiment of dragoons, James White … had on when he went away a light fuſtian frock, plain cocked hat, with a cockhade and red feather, flowered linen waiſtcoat, and fuſtian breeches.” (The Gloucester Journal, October 26, 1778)
“a flowered linen apron matching the trim of the Caraco … Her pleated caraco, or caraco à la Française, is trimmed with a large band of linen, with a matching petticoat trimmed with an ample volant, and over it an apron, also of flowered linen, with trimmed and drawstringed pockets.” (Galerie des Modes, 17e Cahier, 6e Figure, 1779)
“a printed linen waistcoat” (Virginia Gazette or American Advertiser, October 30, 1784)
“Whereas Mr. Stephen Waream’s Wife eloped on the the 27th of October … had on and carried away … a flowered linen gown” (Salisbury Journal, November 10, 1788)
The Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor (1789) recommends the use of printed linen fabric when making tippets and bedgowns for child-bed linen
“her child had on a red printed linen frock” (The City Gazette, January 5, 1796)
Several newspaper advertisements describe printed linen fabrics and handkerchiefs, such as this advertisement from Poulson’s American Daily Advertiser, May 10, 1787