18th Century Muffs

Patterns for muffs from The Lady’s Magazine

A New Pattern for a Lady's Muff for Tambour or Embroidery
October 1775

A New Pattern for a Muff, &c. &c.
November 1784

A New Pattern for Working a Muff
October 1785

A New Pattern for a Muff
October 1788

A New Pattern for a Muff or Fire Screen &c. to be worked in Colours
January 1794

18th century silk muffs

KCI AC5402 86-26-14, “white silk pongee with polychrome silk embroidery, pailette decoration”

V&A E.5081-1905, an embroidery design for a muff from the Continuatio der Kunst- und Fleiß-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu-ersonnenen Besondern Nehe-Bichs dritter Theil by Margaretha Helm, c. 1725

MFA 43.1822, France, c. 1774-1793; “White silk covered by white silk ribbon and cord lattice studded with blue, salmon, purple chenille flowers, fly fringe and flowers at sides. White silk lining. Filled with wool batting.”

Met 1978.280.1, embroidered silk, Britain, c. 1780

Massachusetts Historical Society 4129, a muff belonging to Hannah Dawes Goldthwaite Newcomb, “Silk exterior and silk lining, both champagne color, with undetermined middle layer. Exterior has embroidered design of an oval floral wreath with a posy of the same flowers and leaves on three stems, tied together with a blue bow.” Probably made in Massachusetts and “fashioned from an earlier piece of clothing.”

Malmö Museum 239, a silk muff with polychromatic silk and metal-thread embroidery, with silver spangles and ribbon embroidery

MFA 43.1820, England, c. 1785-1800; “White silk satin with central mezzotint portrait medallion of young woman with lamb in pastoral setting, seed pearl border. Wreath of pink and white crépe flowers and green leaves, green and russet silk embroidery and purple crépe bows. White silk lining. Filled with batting.”

MFA 43.1823, France; “Green-yellow silk satin with appliquéd white satin central mezzotint portrait medallion of young woman. Wreath embroidered with silver yarns and spangles and red foil leaves. White silk lining. Filled with batting and paper.”

MFA 43.1824, England, c. 1785-1800; “Ivory silk satin muff, central medallion printed with mezzotint portrait of a woman; embroidered with metallic thread, beads, and spangles”

Colonial Williamsburg 1958-25, France, c. 1785-1810; “Silk, silk chenille and gauze, metallic sequins and bullion, paint; replaced lining and cotton stuffing. The hand-painted ornament depicts the allegorical figure of Hope with her anchor. The muff originally had strings or ribbons drawn through channels on the ends to snug the fit around the wrists. Faint stitch marks show the original position of the drawstring channels. Muffs were important fashion accessories during this period, worn even indoors.”

MFA 95.1426; “Blue satin ground with a powder of white dots. The muff is lined with pink silk and faced with pink satin. Used in Venice.”

Malmö Museum 230, a silk muff with a landscape drawing

London Museum A15073, c. 1791-1800

Met C.I.39.13.251, c. 1799-1821

18th century feather muffs

Met 1984.101, feathers and fur, Britain, third quarter of the 18th century

London Museum A15222, trade card with an invoice for a feather muff and tippet from Joseph Spilsbury, January 1758

London Museum 41.23, c. 1801-1840; “White feather muff accented with pink, blue and brown feathers. The inside of the muff is lined with animal hair.”

18th century fur muffs

Some furriers’ trade cards include pictures of fur muffs, including John Jahns, C. Romlitz, and Saurbrey & Co.

Portrait of a lady in black with a fur muff, c. 1730-1760

Portrait of a woman in a red dress with a black muff by Marianne Loir, second half of the 18th century

Man in a tricorn hat standing and holding a fur muff by Thomas Patch, 1760s

Madame Sophie de France by François Hubert Drouais, 1762

The Female Bruisers by John Collet, 1768

Portrait of a woman, seated, in a red dress with a black muff by Marianne Loir

Rijksmuseum BK-NM-9708, c. 1780-1795; large muff of long-haired beige fur, with black satin ribbons sewn at equal distances, lined with light green and white silk. Probably worn by a man.

Mary Bootle, Mrs Wilbraham Bootle by George Romney, 1781

Lady in the countryside wearing a fur trimmed stole and carrying a muff, 1792

Additional depictions of 18th century muffs

Femme de qualité en echarpe, c. 1700

Two studies of men by Carlevarijs, c. 1700-1710

Rehearsal of an opera by Marco Ricci, c. 1709

Portrait of a lady, c. 1700-1725

Quoy donc, Amant transi, tu te sers d'un manchon, 1735

A Taste in High Life, after Hogarth, 1746

January, mid-18th century

Miss Mary Pelham by Sir Joshua Reynolds, c. 1757

Kitty Fisher by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1757-1759

The canonical beau, or, Mars in the dumps, 1768

Paysan des Alpes by Henry William Bunbury, 1769-1770

Statute Hall for hiring servants, 1770

A man wears a muff as he skates by a Carriage-Ride on the Ice in Des Elementarbuchs für die Jugend illustrated by Daniel Chodowiecki, 1770; this seems to be the basis for a later 18th century illustration of a winter scene with figures on the ice (H/T Paul Dickfoss)

January and May, 1771

A decoy for the old as well as for the young, 1773

The Morning Toilet - Boudoir Scene by Pehr Hilleström

Color print showing women's costume, c. 1775-1780

Lady Caroline Scott as “Winter” by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1776

Miss Juniper Fox, 1777

Miss Palmer by Sir Joshua Reynolds

Return from the grand tour, 1778

Jeune Petit-Maître en peliss, 1778

A woman of fashion in walking dress by James Roberts

Winter by John Raphael Smith

Sir Charles Turner of Kirkleatham, Yorkshire

Illustrations from Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français:
11e Cahier, 2e Figure, MFA 44.1328/MFA 44.1327 (1778), a middle class woman with a white drum-shaped muff, matching the fur on her pelisse
16e Cahier, 1ere Figure, MFA 44.1362 (1778), a young lady with a “little muff in her hand, matching the cordon of the pelisse”
19e Cahier, 3e et 4e Figures, MFA 44.1386 (1779), “Bourgeoise at ease … a white muff”
MFA 44.1394 (1779), a man with a redingote en Bakmann with a muff
37e Cahier, 3e Figure, MFA 44.1521 (1781); “informal gown that can be worn in Grand mourning. The muff is of black plumes according to etiquette.”
37e Cahier, 6e Figure, MFA 44.1524, “Pelisse lévite with cuffs and Collar trimmed with ermine, the petticoat of spotted white Satin, the muff of the same trimmed with bands of ermine … This Gown was worn by a Lady of quality during the Mourning for M. Thérèse of Austria, mother of the Emperor and the Queen of France.” (1781)
MFA 44.1547 (1782)
39e Cahier (bis 2), 1ere Figure, MFA 44.1566 (1784); lady in morning dress with a silk muff
47e Cahier, 1ere Figure, “a Nymph of slight size … with a white muff of Siberian sheeps' wool”
47e Cahier, 6e Figure, an English Beauty with a long-haired muff (1785)
9e Cahier, 1ere Planche, Céphise at the Théatre Française; “She wore on her hands a large Muff of Angora goat, wolf-colored” (March 15, 1786)

Fashion plate, 1780s

Fashion plate, 1780s

Men's costume, 1780s

The Twelve Months: November, 1781

Skaiting Scene in Hyde Park, 1785

2e Cahier, 1ere Planche, Cabinet des Modes (December 1, 1785), a woman in full dress with a white muff of angora goat, 1780s

Two costume sketches, French, c. 1785-1790

3e Cahier, Plate I, Magasin des Modes (1786), winter dress with “a muff of blackish fox, decorated in the middle with a white fox tail and with four very large white spots, and surmounted by a bow of violet ribbon”

Modern Defence, or The Siege of Fort Phyllis, 1786

Madame Molée-Reymond by Elisabeth Vigée-Le Brun, 1786

Les Incommodités de Janvier 1786 by Inigo Barlow

The Muff, 1787

The fox muff, 1787

Such things are : Telles choses sont : that such things are we must allow, but such things never were till now, 1787

Color print with women's costume, 1787

Nicole Ricard by Maurice Quentin de la Tour

Winter: bless my heart how cold it is, 1788

The Miseries of the Country by Thomas Rowlandson

Portrait of an unknown family by Jean Humbert, last quarter of the 18th century

Pupils of Nature, 1798

Comfort for an Old Maid, 1800