18th Century Tippets
What is a tippet? Let’s turn to the ever-informative Samuel Johnson for a definition:
Well, Dr. Johnson is often a bit vague on the details of clothing, especially women’s clothing.
There are multiple definitions of a tippet; The 1760 New Complete English Dictionary defines it as “a woman's fur kerchief.” There’s also some descriptions indicating that it’s a linen accessory that charitable organizations might give to impoverished girls. So, this page will cover both fur tippets and linen tippets.
(There’s also a c. 1789-1800 fur accessory known as a “bosom friend.” I’m not sure what it looks like. There are loose descriptions, like “To a Young Lady with a Bosom-Friend of Siberian Ermine.” I haven’t found a clear description of the difference between a bosom-friend and a fur tippet, though they’re clearly different things. Perhaps it was more like the furs worn by Maria Amalie Auguste of Saxony and this unknown woman. Furriers advertising both tippets and bosom-friends included Minchin in the Dec 24 1789 Bath Chronicle, George Affleck in the Nov 11 1794 Edinburgh Advertiser, Gilchrist & Co. in the Nov 14 1795 Caledonian Mercury, R. Baker in the Nov 13 1796 Observer, etc.)
Additionally, some trials in the Proceedings of the Old Bailey mention silk tippets or laced tippets (or both — “a black silk laced tippet”). If I can find more information about them, I’ll add a section to this page as well.
In either case, they’re different from 14th & 15th century tippets.
Additional Resources
Fashionable women’s fur tippets in the 18th century
Several 18th century furriers’ trade cards list muffs and tippets for sale, including James Arnold, Sebastian Kleinert, Tobias Kleinert, John Jahns, Melanscheg & Co., C.A. Muller, Samuel Muller, Robert Norris, J.G. Poland, Reichard, C. Romlitz, Saurbrey & Co., and Schneider.
Charlotte Philippine de Châtre de Cangé, Marquise de Lamure by Charles Antonie Coypel, c. 1735
Miſs Flora Macdonald, first half of the 18th century
An unknown woman, called Peg Woffington by George Beare, c. 1740-1749
Griselda Countess Stanhope, c. 1742
Pamela and Lady Davers by Joseph Highmore, c. 1743-1744
January, 1745
Mrs. John Faber by Thomas Hudson, c. 1750; see also Mrs. Faber
Winter, c. 1753
The Studious Fair, c. 1758
Young woman with bellows by Philip Mercier, before 1760; also reproduced as a mezzotint (“The Four Elements: Fire”), as Colonial Williamsburg 1952-376,1, British Museum 1870,0514.2938, etc.
“There are many curious Furs brought Home [to England] as Preſents from Canada, particularly a ſable Muff and Tippet, which coſt, in that Country, 50 Guineas.” (The Pennsylvania Gazette, October 2, 1760)
Two ladies, one holding a fan and the other a rose
“A ROBBERY. Three Hundred Dollars Reward. ON Friday night, the 15th inſtant, the houſe of the ſubſcriber was broke open, and the following articles ſtolen, viz. One long Broadcloth Cloak of a light colour, one ſhort Coating ditto of a light colour, bound with tape, a black Sattin Bonnet lined with white, a black Fur Tippet, a Boy's Hat, and one white Linen Apron.” (Poulson’s Daily American Advertiser, December 23, 1780)
“TO BE SOLD by AUCTION By THOMAS BIRD, On Friday and Saturday net the 20th and 21ſt days of June, at a Large Room in Green-ſtreet, The Principal of a LADY’s WARDROBE; conſiſting of a white ſattin and great variety of ſilk and cotton gowns and petticoats, made and unmade ſattin and other coats, ſeveral yards of ſprig'd muſlin, with ſundry muſlin articles in aprons, handkerchiefs, &c. ſome ſcarlet cloth for womens cloaks, brown ermine muff and tippet, uſeful linen, &c. N.B. By Permiſſion will be introduced, A work’d ſprig’d Muſlin Bed Furniture, not made up, with ſome chair caſes to match.” (The Bath Journal, June 16, 1783)
“one martin skin muff, value 40 s. one martin skin tippet, value 50 s. and one woollen cloak, value 40 s.” (Trial of Lewis Burke and Eleanor Kelly, 26 May 1784)
The Marquise d’Aramon by Jean-Laurent Mosnier, c. 1789
“A BLACK MUFF AND TIPPET, in a Paper Box, in which was a bill and receipt for the ſame, was miſlaid laſt Tueſday afternoon, ſuppoſed to be in a ſtore, not recollected by the perſon who left the box. The perſon who has ſaid Muff and Tippet, is requeſted to leave it at Negus's Ferry, Arch Street, for JOSEPH BOWKER, Stageman.” (Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, December 14, 1790)
Lady in the countryside wearing a fur trimmed stole and carrying a muff, 1792
“fourteen furr tippets, value 4 l.” (Trial of Richard Goodall and Edward Marshall, 15 December 1792)
Trial of Sarah Hawley & Mary Cooley, 15 January 1794:
SARAH HAWLEY and MARY COOLEY were indicted for feloniously making an assault on Catharine Claris , a single woman , on the 2d of January , putting her in fear and feloniously taking from her person and against her will, one fur muff, value 8s. a fox tippett, value 3s. a check muslin apron, value 4s. two yards of sattin ribbon, value 8d. the goods of the said Catharine Claris …
Sarah Hawley damned me for a b-ch, and said she would let me know, she then struck me, she then made a snatch at my apron, I did my endeavour to hold my apron with the muff, and the tippett in it, she then gave me a blow in my left eye, which occasioned me to loose my hold, they tore my apron off my lap, with the muff and tippett in it; Sarah Hawley did it, and gave it to the other woman, Mary Cooley … I went home all tore to pieces as I was, I got my cap and bonnet but I lost my fox muff and tippet, and a check muslin apron, and two yards of sattin ribbon.
In 1795, Daniel Hartung, Furrier, advertised in Poulson’s American Daily Advertiser: “A General and Complete Aſſortment of MUFFS & TIPPETS – THE beſt of Martin and Martin Throat, Gibery Fox, Squirrel, Angola, &c. &c. Lining and Trimmings for Ladies' cloaks, Gentlemen's travelling caps, gloves lined with fur – Wholeſale and Retail. N.B. The higheſt price given for all ſorts of furs.”
“LOST on the road from Windſor to Hartford Court Houſe, a MARTIN-SKIN TIPPET. Whoever has picked it up and will leave it with the printers ſhall be handſomely compenſated.” (Hartford Courant, April 25, 1796)
Trade card of David Lonsdale appears to have fur tippets on a table next to several fur muffs, c. 1800
Trade card of E. Douse, Fur Manufactory, advertising “Muffs, Tippets, & all kinds of Fur repaired equal to New,” c. 1800-1803
"A Half Dress. As prepared for the Duchess of Roxburgh … The unique, and much admired muff and tippet, formed entirely of shaded Turkish feathers, patronized and adopted by the Princesses, and now the distinguishing appendage of all ladies of rank and elegance. This very novel, tasteful, and ingenious ornament is to be obtained at the celebrated shop, late Dyde’s and Scribe’s, Pall-Mall.” (La Belle Assemblée or Bell's Court and Fashionable Magazine, April 1807)
“Walking Dress … French tippet of leopard silk shag.” (Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, November 1810)
Instructions for cutting out apparel for the poor (1789) provides instructions for making linen tippets. They may share the same name as the more fashionable fur accessory, but they’re a very different garment.
Laſt Sunday one hundred and twenty children belonging to the School of Induſtry were at the Abbey church dreſſed in their new clothes; their appearance gave general ſatiſfaction, and particularly ſo as the clothes are the produce their own labour; the remaining ſixty children will be clothed in the ſame manner very ſoon. The clothing for the large boys conſiſts of a coat and waiſtcoat of olive-coloured ſerge, leather breeches, ſhirt, ſhoes, ſtockings, and a cap of ſerge with the words Reward of Induſtry round it; the little boys have jackets, trowſers, &c. The girls have jackets and petticoats of the ſame ſerge, ſhifts, ſhoes, ſtockings, linen tippet and cap, with a piece of worſted in imitation of ribbon inſcribed with the ſame words as thoſe on the boys’ caps.
V&A T.353-1967, France, c. 1780-1799; “Woman’s tippet of bleached cotton, with 1 straight edge and 1 curved edge forming an elongated semi-circle, with scalloped edges. It is tamboured with bleached cotton thread and silver filé, embroidered with drawn and pulled fabric work, and silver spangles. There is a border of intertwined bands; the centre is filled with medallions, feathers and arches.”
In a trial on 14 January 1789, ten-year-old Mary Wade and thirteen-year-old Jane Whiting “were indicted for feloniously assaulting [eight-year-old] Mary Phillips, on the King's highway, on the 5th of October, and putting her in fear, and feloniously taking from her person, and against her will, one cotton frock, value 3 s. one linen tippet, value 2 d. one linen cap, value 2 d.”